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Simple, straightforward fare reigns at this unpretentious Soho trattoria. The carciofi alla giudia,{/I} a Roman-Jewish dish of artichokes fried in olive oil, is done particularly well. Ditto the thin-crust pizzas--the pristine Margherita arrives crisp and charred, topped with just enough elastic mozzarella and a tomato sauce enlivened with garlic and basil. Forgo the basic desserts for another round of bruschette: The garlicky crusts of bread can be topped with a briny trio of chopped Sicilian olive varieties.

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