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Warmly hospitable Gaia had a (litigious) namesake in Connecticut; hence, the one-letter name change. Here, meze are brought unbidden to your table (panfried calf"s liver; luscious muhammara,{/I} made with garlic, walnuts and red peppers; and more); take only the ones you want. If you have enough self-control to save room for a main course, note that each comes with bulgur, straw potatoes, a zucchini fritter and a dollop of kaymak,{/I} a sort of clotted cream. It"s probably just as well that dessert is limited to seasonal fresh fruit.

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