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Jazzing up Curry Row is Malai Marke, a sleek spot with copper pots pinned to brick walls and a chandelier of upside-down champagne flutes. Ensuring quality is owner Shiva Natarajan, also behind the excellent Dhaba, Bhojan, Chola and Thelewala. Lamb vindaloo is super spicy, lamb madras less so, submerged in a sauce of fresh coconut, dry red chiles and curry leaves. Vegetarian and vegan choices abound, and the breads— tandoor-fired naan, pan-grilled paratha, deep-fried luchi—are out of this world. Prices are roughly halved at lunch, but no matter when you go, the staff is warm and accommodating.