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What"s not to love about the name ("eat me" in Italian)? It"s no surprise that LES locals have followed the order. Every meal begins with gratis olives and crusty bread--dig in while you ponder the well-priced wine list (glasses start at $4). Some pastas, like spaghetti carbonara, are deliciously rich, while lighter bets include the involtino di pollo--chicken stuffed with mozzarella and spinach in a lemony tomato sauce and a long list of excellent pressed sandwiches. Owner Gianfranco Costa designed the space himself, hanging large fabric-wrapped canvases on the walls and bringing in sleek zebra-wood chairs. The restaurateur gene runs in the family; his brother Michele is the man behind Pepe Rosso.

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