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Surprisingly low-key for a hectic part of Soho, this bistro is a favorite gathering spot for Europeans, who probably appreciate its relaxed civility. Big windows open to the street in good weather, and the menu is an exemplary list of classics done right. Steak frites, for example, is perfectly unpretentious and delicious; the grilled rack of lamb is presented simply, on a mound of mashed potatoes and baby bok choy. Come dessert, cool background jazz is the only enhancement the cheesecake needs.

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