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On weekdays, this Dominican-owned midtown lunch counter is jammed with patrons, whom you"ll get to know better when sharing one of the precious few tables. They gather for roasted chicken and excellent octopus salad--thin, chewy slices of pulpo tossed with piquant olives. The Cuban sandwich is a standout: Crammed with roasted pork, ham, salami, sliced pickles and white cheese, it comes dressed with mayo and mustard unless you specify otherwise. Lines are longest on Wednesdays, when Margon offers the supersucculent roasted-pork special.

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