The stateside debut of this Russian chain trades in Soviet kitsch. Places are set with lace doilies, and jars of house-infused vodkas clutter the wooden shelves. The food is on par with a flashy Brighton Beach dance hall"s: Beef Stroganoff was a tad chewy, but the side of mushroom kasha was a nutty treat. Whole trout, stuffed with mushrooms, had a beautiful sear but too much rich cream sauce on top. Desserts--like a mixed-berry mille-feuille--are as sickly sweet as the decor. But like an evening out in Russian Brooklyn, at Mari Vanna, you pay as much for the spectacle as you do for the food.