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Perfect slices of house-made country bread appear at your table between courses, proving that a rustic-looking patisserie can have a sophisticated kitchen. A heaping helping of steamed mussels is accompanied by a creamy citrus sauce for dunking. The rack of lamb, with a surprisingly sweet side of grilled autumn squash, comes au jus. The extensive pastry selection will tempt you, but zero in on the bread pudding with bananas flambé.

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