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Smack in the middle of loud, crowded NYU-land, this quiet, mirrored dining room has long attracted a mixed bag of neighborhood professionals; they come to escape the hubbub and sup on Massimo"s seductive Pan-Italian dishes. Fresh eggplant is stuffed with a froth of ricotta cheese and tender sliced ham. Entrées are heavy, like a veal scaloppine overwhelmed by potent Gorgonzola cheese. Daily specials may include game, such as wild boar or venison; for the less adventurous, herb-rubbed lamb chops show that the kitchen can also manage an occasional light touch.

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