[This description refers to another location.] This homey, low-ceilinged trattoria welcomes --diners with tantalizing scents emanating from --the kitchen. Tucked away on the list of sides, the melanzane al funghetto-diced eggplant served in a tangy tomato sauce-will have you sopping up every last bit of sauce. An appetizer of prosciutto and mozzarella di bufala arrives with a generous serving of greens and tomatoes. Rich lasagna, baked in individual pottery dishes, is a far cry from those tired Little Italy slabs. A special of lobster ravioli packs juicy morsels of seafood in a tomato-cream sauce. But crème brûlée at an Italian restaurant? Shhh: It's that good.