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An ocean-fresh raw bar and icy microbrews, not Styrofoam buckets of suds, rule at this upscale offshoot of nearby dive Jeremy"s. Lunching businessmen pack the upstairs lounge to munch half-pound burgers, oysters and po" boys at paper-topped tables, which are equipped with crayons for sudden inspiration. After dark, easygoing locals rule the slender downstairs bar, downing Dogfish Head and Lone Star brew and playing Connect Four beneath lazily spinning ceiling fans.

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