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Skip the sushi and explore the vast menu of well-executed cooked standards and interesting offbeat choices at this subdued little spot. Start with the Fried Alaska (ground salmon, asparagus and mint wrapped in a soy sheet and lightly fried) or yuba-ae (broccoli rabe tossed with delicate tofu skin in a tangy-sweet miso dressing). Entrées include well-prepared donburi, teriyaki, soba and udon dishes. Ask for shichimi togarashi (pepper-and-sesame seasoning) to sprinkle on top. For dessert, try tempura ice cream--fried vanilla Tofutti drizzled with chocolate sauce and garnished with whipped cream, roasted almonds, fresh strawberries and chocolate-covered Pocky candy.

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