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Momofuku Ssäm Bar Chef David Chang"s latest feels like two restaurants fused into one: a Korean Chipotle, and a self-aware joint serving designer ham and pricey platters. Waiters hustle to noisy rock music in this 50-seat space, which feels like Megu compared with its predecessor"s crowded counter dining. Chefs create concoctions priced to sample, including the wonderfully fatty pork-belly steamed bun with hoisin sauce and cucumbers, and the house ssäm (Korean for "wrap"), which might be the finest burrito in the city. Chang flirts with watch-your-wallet territory: $115 for a 32-ounce rib eye and $180 for a hog butt feeding six to eight, served with a dozen oysters.

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