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Chef Martin Forde opened Mood in a neighborhood--Kew Gardens--long restricted to burgers and pizza. His appetizers go from the classic (meaty crab cakes) and the health-conscious (three salads) to the experimental (mushroom strudel resembling egg rolls). Entrées include a grilled veal chop as juicy as any you"d find in a fine steakhouse and ocean-sweet scallops with gingered rice. Tabs are very moderate, another mood-lifter for early adopters of creative cuisine in central Queens.

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