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The proliferation of luxury-hotel bars--from the stalwart Four Seasons to the Matsuri at the Maritime--makes Morgans feel a little shopworn. Until you've had a drink or two, the place looks like what it is: a small, dressed-up basement. The overall aesthetic is louche-baroque, with red-velvet drapes, tufted ottomans and delicate chandeliers. Because this is Ian Schrager's debut hotel bar, cocktails still run $12, but the tab seems excessive in a space that has seen better days.

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