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While crowds pack into megarestaurants for mass-produced meals, a mellower group of diners can hide out in tiny Naka Naka. Sit on a tatami mat and savor the fruits of the kitchen, starting with spicy slivers of lotus root and a quintet of deliciously dense shrimp dumplings. Thick cuts of yellowtail sashimi and chewy disks of fresh octopus can be paired with a short list of tried-and-true rolls. The sushi is neither phenomenal nor disappointing, but considering how difficult it is to find peace and quiet over dinner in this part of town, we can"t complain.

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