Narcissa is pretty in every way: the romantic, hidden doorway to the left of the entrance of the Standard East Village hotel, the poetic flower arrangements, the white tapered candle on each table, the pale wood nooks and view of the picturesque courtyard, to say nothing of the good-looking staff and clientele. This is an Andre Balazs operation. Michelin-starred chef John Fraser (Dovetail) provides substance, sourcing ingredients from Balazs's Hudson Valley farm, Locusts on Hudson. He especially shines a spotlight on vegetables, such as rotisserie-crisped beets with bulgur salad, apples and creamed horseradish, and carrots "Wellington" with bluefoot mushrooms and sunchokes. Fish, poultry and meat are thoughtfully rendered, too, from Maine scallops with green garlic and spaghetti squash to lamb loin with spinach pie and piquillo peppers. There's a small bar manned by able barkeeps if you're just looking for a Negroni and a snack. For more theatrics, get seats at the chef's counter and observe the kitchen in action.