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The "cookers" in question are not the chefs manning the soul-food kitchen--the name comes from a 1965 Blue Note recording with red-hot trumpeters Freddie Hubbard and Lee Morgan. It should come as no surprise, then, that the place offers jazz with its grits and gravy. On weekends, the bar is thick with flashy revelers who dig the organ-driven combos set up in the front window. Those who want background music should retire to the lounge.

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