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Apparently, nobody told Noam Sokolow that delis in this "hood are supposed to be slightly unkempt, staffed with gruff employees and adorned with pictures of past Presidents munching corned beef on rye. His sophisticated, comfortable dining room is a pleasure, the staff friendly, and although Bill Clinton has sampled the Ark"s glatt kosher food, there"s no proof plastered on the wall. The standard pastrami sandwich and matzo-ball soup are on offer, but in an odd deviation from deli norms, the most popular dish on the menu is meaty barbecued beef ribs with tangy sauce and--of course--a pickle.

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