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This bi-level Soho spot featuring glitzy chandeliers is a fine stopoff for a well-heeled bite and a tipple. Splurge on fancy vino (a pricey Enomatic wine-preservation system allows for by-the-glass tastes of Lafite and Margaux) and a starter of salmon tartare--a luscious combo of sweet fish and lemon-scented crème fraîche. We loved the risotto-like, saffron-infused nishiki rice that came with a snapper entrée, but the chewy lamb main course was dismal, as were ill-conceived desserts, including the puddingish champagne sabayon.

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