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Business must be tough on Columbus Avenue and 85th Street. The spot that was Avenue and 520 has just been rechristened once again. Chef Merrill Moore (former sous chef at Crispo) and his onetime boss Sam DeMarco are hoping that affordable rustic Italian cuisine will fare better than French or American did. They"re serving antipasti--olives, anchovies, calamari, stuffed peppers, Taleggio, prosciutto and whole roasted garlic--for $4, $5 and $7 a pop at the bar, and entrées like codfish oreganata with gigante beans and grilled hanger steak with garlic crostini and melted onions for between $13 and $20.

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