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At this aptly named casual Asian spot, chef Meng Cheong fries pork dumplings over a furious flame just feet from the 14-seat bar (there are only three tables in the tiny, brightly lit restaurant). The best dishes, not surprisingly, showcase noodles. The pastas steeped in broth stand out in particular: One pairs tender duck with Chinese broccoli and delicate egg noodles in a complex soup made from chicken and duck bones. But the menu doesn"t start and end with starches: The appetizers, such as sticky sesame wings and fried squid with a wasabi aioli dipping sauce, are generous. Desserts are limited to a choice of five-spiced cheesecake, ginger-lemongrass crème brûlée or cool almond dofu, a panna cotta--like mixture of cream, gelatin and almond flavor.

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