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This quiet street in deepest Brooklyn Heights might seem an unlikely place to find such a riotous range of Italian cooking--yet here it is. Strozzapreti pasta with eggplant, tomato and ricotta is a sassy blast straight from Sicily. Rabbit that"s braised, then roasted with vegetables and herbs and served with polenta, tastes of Tuscany, and schiaffoni all"amatriciana (fat, cylindrical noodles in a sauce of tomato, pancetta and onion) is a glorious postcard from Rome. All in all, it"s a swell trip.

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