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Novitá serves real Italian food for grown-ups, and the pleasantly muted setting lets it shine. Chef-owner Marco Fregonese knows how to treat you right: His kitchen showers diners with little gifts, from bruschette with oven-dried tomatoes and fresh mozzarella to little biscotti at meal"s end. A salad of mushrooms, baby artichokes and celery is crisp and bright in its lemon dressing, with slivers of Parmigiano-Reggiano lending a nutty edge. Tender venison is rolled with spinach and prosciutto, then served in a glossy reduction of red wine and beef broth. Finish with the cold, creamy hazelnut semifreddo, punctuated by crunchy bits of nougat and nuts.

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