Bright, clean Nyonya is a model of Chinese-Malay efficiency: The cheerful staff zooms customers through seating, eating and paying up--to make room for the next batch. (The Brooklyn branch is just as busy.) Take in the charm of the bamboo-hut interior while you can; dishes like roti canai, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and battered, fried whole fish drizzled in spicy-sweet sauce will be a delicious distraction. The only downside to a speedy kitchen that serves everything piping hot: burning your tongue while wolfing it all down.
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