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Nestled in a corner of a tree-filled atrium is this cheese bar, the first stateside branch of a Roman chain. The fresh formaggi are treated with a reverence typical of sushi spots: A tasting of three, made exclusively from rich water-buffalo milk, included the "Paestum," a silken ball with smooth skin coating a soft, juicy center. Perhaps the greatest of the curds was the stracciatella,{/I} a thick mixture of shredded cow"s-milk mozzarella bathed in cream. Unfortunately, Obikà's fixings--stale bread, unrefined sides--fall short. Stick to the stellar dairy, which includes desserts like whipped ricotta with orange zest and honey.

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