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This Pan-Latin joint is one of few eateries around the South Street Seaport to cater to locals. The kitchen turns out a wide range of dishes that, while mostly good, suffer from inconsistency. A fine crab-cake burger boasted plenty of fresh lump meat, but the side of cheese-topped fries reminded us of fast food. A rich skirt steak was brought down by a salad of wan asparagus and cherry tomatoes. For dessert, churros delivered on their promise: moist in the center with a salty caramel dipping sauce. Incongruences aside, Onda still beats out the area"s more generic alternatives.

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