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A black rooster on the bottle sets Tuscany"s Chianti Classico apart from the sea of regular Chiantis. Similarly, this homey osteria distinguishes itself from Bleecker Street"s crush of pleasant but forgettable red-sauce joints. The antipasti plate is a delicious, carefully composed assemblage of seasonal vegetables, some warm, some cool. Fennel-and-orange salad needed a more assertive dressing, but pappardelle with savory rabbit ragù{/I} tasted authentically Tuscan--fresh, meaty, simple. A tangy limoncello crema and a warm, crumbly apricot tart should leave you crowing.

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