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Cobble Hill"s slightly grungy La Rosa & Son space gets a face-lift courtesy of local minimogul Jim Mamary (Black Mountain Wine House, Pacifico). Though the seating has been expanded, the updated space is still somewhat hard on the eyes: Its ceiling is drab brown, and exposed-brick walls are painted a mustardy hue. But avert your eyes and attend to the solid red-sauce Italian eats, like a simple, satisfying meatball sub or a classic thin crust Gotham slice: pleasantly crispy on the edges, slightly droopy at the center.

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