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The main room of this sprawling rough-and-ready roadhouse--with wooden tables and bright Mexican tiles (and a blazing fireplace in winter)--is bustling. Drinkers and diners chat over expertly made margaritas and tasty starters like queso fundido,{/I} a dense, rich mass of molten cheese with crispy chips or warm tortillas. A charred salmon and tortilla stack is topped with a sweet-corn-and-mango salsa and spicy grilled shrimp. Baja tacos are stuffed with crisp fried fish and crunchy cabbage, and served with grilled corn slathered in chili mayo. Temper the spice with a cooling sliver of tart key lime pie. In summer, the big front yard--and an ice-cold cerveza--will call your name.

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