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When the Meatpacking masses are bottlenecked at the door to Pastis, you can defect to this sweet little alternative. Flowering hydrangea in Paradou"s bucolic garden are a pretty backdrop for postshopping (or preclubbing) patrons lingering over glasses of wine. The modern provençal menu ranges from simple salads to haute dishes like short rib cassoulet. For dessert, don"t miss the crêpes wrapped around caramelized apples and calvados or dark chocolate and candied orange.

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