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Located in the no-man"s-land where Soho meets Little Italy, this French bistro is a warm beacon on an otherwise desolate corner. The tiny space is made even more quaint with flickering candles and windows dressed with lace curtains. If there"s a wait, it"s worth lining up for chef-owner Michel Pombet"s excellent fare, including savory stewed lamb, and crab cakes gift-wrapped in phyllo pastry. Fluffy chocolate mousse cake is the natural choice for dessert--and it is uncommonly good.

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