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The entrance to this taxidermy-strewn saloon is hidden behind an old phone booth inside Crif Dogs. Pick up the receiver and a hostess opens the back wall of the booth. Inside, mixologist Jim Meehan offers elite cocktail creations like the frothy Judgment Day, a pleasing mix of citrus, allspice and floral St. Germain. The old-fashioned--made with smoky, bacon-infused bourbon and maple syrup--has become the joint's best-known drink. The staff is happy to talk you through any libation on the menu, or suggest an haute dog brought in from next door. It's that kind of dedication that makes getting in worth the effort.

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