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This convivial, New England--style joint was a forerunner of the city"s fish-shack trend. The outstanding lobster roll--sweet, lemony meat laced with mayonnaise on a butter-enriched bun--is Pearl"s raison d'être, but more sophisticated dishes fare equally well: A bouillabaisse features briny lobster broth packed with mussels, cod, scallops and clams, with an aioli-smothered crouton balanced on top--a great value at $20. For dessert, try a bittersweet chocolate mousse topped with a quenelle of barely sweetened whipped cream. Finally, a restaurant worthy of its hype.

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