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Here"s proof that you don"t have to schlep to Chinatown to get the good stuff. Noteworthy Cantonese comestibles at this midtown spot include potent mustard greens floating in a dark pork broth, sea bass with black mushrooms and savory casseroles--one standout features oysters and bean curd. The sense of discovery provided by the clandestine basement digs ought to hold you over until your next adventure south of Canal.

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