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Round-pie-loving New Yorkers may scoff at the idea of rectangular pizza portioned out in inch-long increments. They need to get over it. Brothers Matt and Todd Birnbaum serve wonderfully crisp thin-crust Roman-style pizza al taglio,{/I} layered with three cheeses, tomato sauce and an array of toppings (highlights include chilies in oil and hot sausage). Tell Matt you loved the garlic and you"ll be treated to an impromptu lesson: how slowly sautéing the bulbs creates a deeper flavor than oven-roasting. Pinch offers delivery and take-out, but these babies (sold in any amount over four inches) are best eaten hot from the oven in the brightly lit dining room

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