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The Manhattan Italian spot gets a Brooklyn sister in the form of this small, golden-lit eatery. Skip white-bean ravioli for a stellar entrée of crisp-skinned grilled guinea hen on crunchy roasted-corn-and-scallion fregula. Moist porcini-crusted cod with red-pepper vinaigrette also sang (though dull borlotti beans and oily greens stole some of its thunder). Desserts were a mixed bag, but panna cotta and sour cherries mingled well together.

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