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Chicken wings marinated in fish sauce, garlic and sugar are a Saigon street-food specialty, a recipe that arrested Andy Ricker's attention when he first tasted them during a trip through Southeast Asia. He sought to re-create them back home in Portland and in 2005 opened the first Pok Pok. Ricker's patrons went nuts for them, too, and within a few years he had several sister eateries. His New York City debut came in 2012, taking over a tiny shop on the Lower East Side that immediately went gangbusters. In addition to the wings is a brief menu of green papaya salad, coconut rice, shredded pork cooked with palm sugar and black soy, and house-roasted red peanuts with chiles, garlic, sea salt and lime leaf.