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This by-the-books bistro from Smith Street pioneer Jim Mamary and Ditmas Park restaurateurs Gary and Allison Jonas (the Farm on Adderley) is the first bougie restaurant on a gritty stretch of Newkirk Avenue. Though charming, Pomme de Terre embodies a number of bistro clichés: tin ceilings, vintage posters and rickety tables. The simple yet competent menu is equally familiar, with staples like a succulent and generous steak crowded with shoestring fries and crisp-skinned duck-leg confit, elevated by a smoky house-made duck sausage. Known territory, sure, but it's refreshing in this terrain.

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