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As a restaurateur, Keith McNally (Pastis, Balthazar) has never relied on groundbreaking cuisine--just simple cooking with mass appeal. But this bustling addition to the destination-pizzeria trend--a visual pastiche of Pastis and Schiller"s--doesn"t even reach that humble mark. At their worst, chef Nate Appleman's pies are as brittle as crackers, with meat, cheese and sauce sparsely sprinkled on top. Even the house-butchered toppings (rustic pepperoni, thick-cut bacon) can"t save the crust underneath. The rest of the menu consists of disjointed small plates like leaden semolina gnocchi, and odd entrées, such as chewy beef short ribs. And while desserts, like a creamy farro pudding topped with sticky dates, are a significant improvement, just about everything else here needs to be seriously reconsidered.

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