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On his TV reality series, Gordon Ramsay ordered a revamp of the midtown pub Dillons, transforming it into an Indian eatery with butter yellow walls and a telegenic chef--Vikas Khanna of Salaam Bombay. While starters of chicken samosas and chicken tikka didn't surpass 6th Street fare, an entrée of fish munia, made with tender hunks of tilapia in an aromatic saffron-spiked cashew gravy, wowed us. Just-sweet-enough homemade mango kulfi (ice cream), along with a $28 prix fixe, should keep diners tuning in for more.

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