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The name stands for "Righteous Urban Barbecue," and that"s not all that"s cocky about this "cue joint. RUB takes no reservations, offers no lunch, and doesn"t apologize for any of it--or for the paper plates and paper towels they call dishes and napkins. The message: Our barbecue is so good, nothing else matters. Paul Kirk, a seven-time world barbecue champion, is the man behind the mission, and while the grub ain"t flawless by Kansas City Barbecue Society standards, less discerning eaters will find much to praise. Ribs are lean and tender, and the details are just right: Wonder Bread comes with each platter, and the slew of ever-important side dishes includes delicious baked beans studded with bits of brisket.

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