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Here"s a rarity: an Indian lunch buffet restaurant that entices you back for dinner a la carte. Tucked beneath Rockefeller Center"s iconic skyscrapers, Rangol is a midday magnet for midtown shoppers and paper-pushers with big appetites. Surprisingly, there"s a decent dinner crowd as well, perhaps drawn to the elegant, neutral-toned dining room. Dishes are distinctively engaging: Chicken hyderabadi, not often seen on these shores, is hot with mustard seed and chilies. Offerings from the tandoori clay oven include tender quail, whole pomfret fish and a yogurt-and-ginger--marinated lamb chop served sizzling in their own juices.

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