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After 31 years, this soul-food takeout favorite closed for renovations. Regulars have returned to the newly spiffed-up space, with fresh walls and photos of jazz greats like John Coltrane. No matter the time of day, lines wrap around the lunch counter for Styrofoam boxes of Caribbean eats like tender smothered chicken, oxtail curry and more than a dozen sides (choose moist greens with meaty bits of chicken over gluey mac and cheese).

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