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This restaurant exposes Upper West Siders to lesser-known culinary gems from not one but 20 different Italian regions. Whole-wheat noodles in duck ragù, from Veneto, was the tastiest lesson we could ever hope to consume. Regional is big on wine, too, and includes a reasonable by-the-glass selection. The room is also a winner--a thoroughly modern, open (and loud) space with high ceilings and more breathing room than most Euro bistros.

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