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A long sushi bar dominates the sleek white-walled room, and on most nights regulars have reserved their seats (one doctor comes so often a table bears a silver reservation card with his name on it). You"ll hear more Japanese spoken than English. While there"s an extensive list of à la carte sushi, the specialty is omakase, or chef"s choice ($75 to $120), a series of numerous fine-tuned minicourses all determined by chef Eiji Ichimura. The meal is exclusively fish, such as bright--orange disks of creamy monkfish liver, buttery-soft fatty tuna sushi or fried tilefish and grilled salmon. Premium sakes served in pretty frosted glasses help take the edge off the pricey tab.

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