This lively corner spot fills a few essential holes in Greenpoint's restaurant scene: It's at once a burger joint where one can tear into a solid Angus patty on brioche, a candlelit date spot and a postdinner saloon. The menu is just as broad, ranging from diner classics (bland split-pea soup) and bistro standards (tender, if a bit undercooked, hanger steak) to wild cards like a crab risotto with a generous balance of crustacean to rice. Beware: With all of this sprawl comes a harried waitstaff. One evening, a waitress was so overwhelmed that the bartender was forced to rush into the fray.
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