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The busy decor--halfway between a "70s ski lodge and an overstocked secondhand shop--is part of the charm at this Brooklyn hangout. Feel free to ignore the menu staples that could be found at any French bistro (beet salad, steak au poivre, croque-monsieur). Investigate the more oddball offerings: spicy merguez sausage on creamy-smooth lentils or the rillettes made with duck, instead of the usual pork. Desserts include solid versions of classics (chocolate cake) as well as more ambitious confections like clafoutis (a dense, fruity flan). The fine selection of digestifs ends dinner on a high note, especially if you"re lounging in the garden.

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