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Ropa vieja (it means "old clothes" in Spanish, mmm) is slow cooked and shredded beef with savory bits of onion, pepper, and garlic in a rich, tomatoey sauce. Bodeguita Cubana"s version is rustic, with scents of cumin and oregano--it"ll make you forgive the peeling pastel paint and surly waiter. Vegetarians will be equally impressed by the spiced avocado spread with cotija cheese.

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