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The original chef at Rothmann"s was a blood relative of Peter Luger himself, so we can forgive some copycatting. Both houses broil their aged beef under high heat, which makes the steaks juicy inside and nicely charred outside. Both serve a giant porterhouse for two, conveniently sliced, and prop up the plate with a small saucer so the juices pool on one end. But this is how Rothmann"s differs: It serves cuts other than the big P; its clientele consists mainly of Brooks Brothers types; and the decor could actually be called decor. It also has one of the city"s most extensive wine lists: Some 850 bottles represent every price range. We"ll drink to that.

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